It's strange how when we grow up, we rediscover passions and hobbies we never knew were important to us from the start. I loved history class as a child, but it took me until the second semester of my freshmen year to consider it as a potential major in my university studies. I always loved painting in school, but I didn't purchase supplies on my own until I was 22. And somehow I forgot that I am really into skincare somewhere between AP tests, prom, moving to Louisville and finishing college.
I'm dead serious. I spent a whole childhood purchasing sheet masks and rubbing egg whites all over my face, and then at some point in late in high school I just stopped. I probably ran out of my favorite Freeman's Chocolate Strawberry face mask and never replaced it. Don't get me wrong, I still took okay care of my skin--I washed my face, used a Pond's moisturizer, and wore SPF during the summer (kinda). But after years of binging Michelle Phan videos, I definitely could have done better.
It wasn't until I got engaged and started stressing out about how old I thought I looked at 21 (L.O.L.) that I started getting back into one of my earliest and healthiest hobbies. It wasn't long until I found Korean skincare and dove in a little too deep. It's an expensive habit with a lot of dud products, and I bought them all. I was treating acne and smile lines I don't even have with serums I couldn't afford. After 2 years of wasting my time, money, and sanity I have developed a half decent approach to Korea skincare that isn't driving me crazy.
The 10-Steps
The steps of Korean skincare are highly debated, but here are the 10-steps I use. You may notice that exfoliation (typically between the foaming cleanser and toner) is missing. I don't have a lot of acne, so I don't exfoliate often. I find that using reusable cotton rounds for my makeup remover and toner is enough exfoliation for my skin.
1. Oil Cleanser
Oil cleanser will help remove leftover makeup, dirt, and grime from your face and help moisturize your skin before you use your second cleanser. My favorite is the Face Shop light oil cleanse.
2. Foaming or Water Cleanser
After an oil cleanser, follow up with a foaming or water-based cleanser. Double cleansing is very important in Korean skincare. This second cleanse will get off any removing dirt and oil, but should also be gentle enough to leave your skin feeling fresh and not tight. I use the Face Shop rice water foaming cleanser, which comes in a two pack with my oil cleanser. I have also used the Tula Probiotic Purifying Face Cleanser during spring and summer when my skin is more oily. This is also a good time to exfoliate once or twice a week.
3. Toner
Using toner twice a day will even out your skin's pigmentation by providing your (final) cleanse, minimizing pores, balancing the pH of your skin, and moisturizing. Toner is the warmup act for your onslaught of hydrating concoctions. I usually use Thayer's Rose Petal Witch Hazel Toner on a reusable cotton round. I prefer the cotton round application method, but if you prefer a mist or spray, Thayer's has a spray bottle version that I keep in my gym bag.
4. Essence
Essences are lightweight and hydrating. Essences are typically less concentrated that serums. Keep your skin type and goals in mind when you're shopping. I lean towards hydrating and brightening in my skincare routine. Right now I am using the Saem Urban Eco Waratah Essence Lotion. A great essence for those with dark spots or acne scars is the Valo Vitamin C Glow Boost Essence, which should only be used a couple times a week and only at night. (Never put vitamin C on and go out into the sun.) You can always use more than one essence at a time, just make sure the active ingredients play nicely together.
6. Serum
Serums are intense, heavy, and highly concentrated hydration. Serums are usually oils or thick creams. I have never been super happy with the serums I have purchased in the past, which have left my skin broken out and red. I do love my Lilyann Retinol Cream and Radha Beauty Facial Oil, which I use in place of a traditional serum. Just like essences, you can use as many (or at few) serums as you'd like. This is another chance to address your skincare needs and goals. I focus on wrinkle prevention with retinol and rose hip.
7. Sheet Mask
Time to bring in some fun activities. Sheet masks are the most time consuming step, and you don't have to do them everyday...but I love a good face mask, so I do. I am not particularly brand loyal with my sheet mask. I buy whatever is on sale at Target or on Amazon, but right now I am using these Daily Honey Sheet Masks by QTBT. I bought these on a whim when they had very few reviews on Amazon, but for a low price of around $1/day, these masks are super affordable and gentle. I use them at night. If you take anything from this post, let it be that these sheet masks are the real deal.
8. Eye Cream
The skin around your eyes is thin, has low elasticity, and needs very delicate care. Eye creams and serums should be lightweight and applied very gently. Apparently applying with your ring fingers can help keep unwanted pressure away, but I typically apply products with a foam brush or my pinkie fingers. Don't discount the advantages of eye cream if you're wrinkle and dark circle free. Taking care of the skin around your eyes if very important if you frequently use concealer and eye makeup. Right now, I am use Dr. Bradt's No More Baggage which isn't doing much for discoloration, but is certainly depuffing my eyes.
9. Moisturizer or Night Cream
These should be your investment products. Moisturizer and night cream are one of the most important parts of Korean skincare (right behind the double cleanse) and should be worn all the time. I use the Grown Alchemist Matte Balancing or Peptide Repair Antiaging Moisturizers in the morning and the Korre's Wild Rose Mask at night.
10. Sunscreen
Please. Wear. Sunscreen. Wear sunscreen. Wear it every single day. Please.
Sure sunscreen protects your skin. Without sunscreen, you might as well skip everything else, because your skin is taking a daily beating. If you are currently doing absolutely nothing in the realm of skincare, please just wash your face everyday and wear sunscreen. I use the Alba facial SPF, but any light weigh sunscreen will work.
Morning vs. Night
The 10-steps of Korean skincare routines is a little deceiving. You don't have to do all ten steps twice a day, and some you only do a couple times each week. The oil and foaming/water cleansers are only used at night. Sunscreen is only used during the day. Your essences and serums are likely going to be in the evening, but it depends on the active ingredients.
My normal routine has 4 steps in the morning and 7-9 steps at night. In the morning, I use toner, eye cream, moisturizer, and sunscreen. At night, I use my oil cleanser, foaming cleanser, toner, essence, serum, a sheet mask every other day, eye cream, and night cream.
Don't let the 10-steps scare you away. In the morning, a quick tone, moisturizer, and SPF is enough. The bulk of this routine is done at night and there is no need to do the sheet masks, essences, and serums every day. You can customize your routine to fit your schedule, skincare needs, and the amount of energy you want to put into your skincare after work. Super busy all week? Try making essences, serums, and sheet masks a relaxing part of your weekend and don't worry about them during your work week. Are you super woman and you just want more steps? You're awesome, but that's weird. Go find another guide without "lazy" in the title. (Tell me your secrets.)
Building Routine
Even though Korea skincare is pretty simple and intuitive once you get going, starting it out can be difficult, confusing, and expensive. I wrote the steps in a dry erase marker on my mirror the first week and I still messed it up.
Start by bulking up your currant skincare routine. If you are only using a cleanser and a moisturizer, add one step at a time. It took me 2 months to purchase and use all of these products. Try using and adapting this habit forming guide to create a routine over 3 weeks.
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